It's only a few days that we returned from the
city of Kastoria and as I look at the photos, I wonder why I haven't visited
this city until today.. And is not that I hadn't thought about or that I
didn't have a chance, but knowing only little about this city (actually these
two - that is surrounded by a beautiful lake and its residents deal mostly with
fur), there was always a destination that fascinated me most and I was always
postponed this trip for another time ..
This time came, somewhere in the middle of
August to prove to me beyond any doubt, how wrong I was all those times when I
rejected this city and to make me wonder, how much more I could be impressed by
Kastoria if I have visited the city during the winter, with the lake be frozen
and the beautiful mansions faded away behind fog?
But since I do not like hypothetical questions,
I will give a promise to myself that I will return in the winter. But until
then I recollect the summer in Kastoria, where you can walk for kilometers
along the lake observing dozens of different species of birds to drink your coffee
on the balcony watching the sun disappear behind the town, to eat your lunch
under huge plane trees in Aposkepos village, looking at the city from above...
Walk arround the lake
It may sounds strange to you, but for the days I
was in Kastoria I had the illusion that I was on an island. The fact that the
city is built on a peninsula that enters the lake has the effect of seeing the
lake in front of you almost anywhere in the city. Lake Orestiada now covers an
area of 30 square kilometers, much smaller than its original form, which was
formed 5,000,000 years ago. We made the lake around two times both by car and
on foot (not the entire lake but the Kastoria peninsula - 6km long) and the
pictures we saw were impressive. We saw swans, ducks, cormorants, Pelecanus and
other birds that we met for the first time, we saw the locals fishing and
others rowing or even skiing, we saw city's reflection in the water creating a
magical image and we sat on benches at the edge of the lake, enjoying the
tranquility that the water scenery exudes.
Cave of the Dragon
The Cave of the Dragon is about 300 meters long
and 10,000 years old. Inside the cave you will see impressive stalactites and
stalagmites as well as 7 underground lakes. The cave took its name from a myth,
according to which many centuries ago the cave was a gold mine and a dragon
kept it. The entrance to the cave is every half hour in guided tours and the
ticket costs 6 euros.
Monastery of Panagia
Mavriotissa
The Monastery of Panagia Mavriotissa is located
a few meters away from the Cave of the Dragon and dates back to the 12th
century. The original name of the temple was Messonisotissa as it is located
right in the center of the lake and later renamed to Mavriotissa because of the
opposite lakeside village of Mavrov, whose inhabitants were taking care of the
monastery. A characteristic feature of the temple is the external frescoes,
which are often found in the Balkan temples. During the Ottoman occupation, the
conquerors removed the eyes from all frescoes, while the temple was converted
into a stable and that is why the floor is damaged.
Byzantine and
Post-Byzantine churches
Byzantinologist Henri Grégoire once said that
if the Byzantine tradition is ever lost, the city of Kastoria is enough to
recover it. The great prosperity of the city from the 10th to the 19th century
was the reason why there are 61 surviving Byzantine and post-Byzantine churches
in this small town. The church of Agios Stefanos is the oldest church in
Kastoria that survives until today. Among the most famous temples are the Agioi
Anargiri, Panagia Koumbelidiki, the Taxiarchis Metropolis and Agios Nikolaos of
Kasnitzis.
Doltso & Apozari
The great prosperity of the city of Kastoria
over the centuries due to the fur industry is evident from the impressive
mansions that stand imposingly to gaze at the lake. Most of them were built
during the 17th and 18th century and are distinguished for their frescoes,
stained glass and their external figurative appearance. The two traditional
neighborhoods of the city are the Apozari on the north side and Doltso on the
south side of the city. Walk in the two districts to admire the narrow paved
cobbled streets, the traditional mansions with beautiful gardens, the Byzantine
temples and the various museums.
Neolithic Lakeside
Settlement of Dispilio
Just outside the city of Kastoria in the
"Nisi" location, lies the Lakeside Neolithic Settlement of Dispilio.
The settlement was found in 1932 when the lake level subsided and some remains
of wooden piles were visible. When the lake level fell more in 1965, more
evidence came to light of the existence of an extensive lagoon settlement of
the Neolithic period. Excavations began in 1992, followed by the reconstruction
of the settlement, which currently consists of 8 huts. Particular impression is
given by the existence of a sign that dates back to 5260 BC and it is presumed
to be an early form of writing.
View of the city
As you have understood so far, Kastoria is a
beautiful city. So do not forget to take a break and relax by admiring the view
of the city over the calm waters of Lake Orestiada. Start your day by going up
to Profitis Ilias to enjoy your coffee overlooking the northern side of the
city and continue a little further up to Agios Athanasios, the highest point in
the city of Kastoria. At noon, go outside the city, to the village of Aposkepos
which reminds of a balcony hanging over Kastoria. And if you want to combine
the magnificent view with a magnificent sunset, do not miss tha chance to visit
the Nautical Club. Sit on the balcony and enjoy the city being reflected in the
waters of the lake as the sun goes down..
Where to eat
Wherever we ate the three days we stayed in
Kastoria, the food was excellent. I was particularly impressed with how many
and good restaurants this little city has. Even more impressive was the
restaurant Grada, which is located on the northern side of the city, next to
the lake. I had read about this particular restaurant as long as I did my
research before the trip and I also received many messages while I was there,
recommending it to me as the city's best restaurant. And it was meant to be one
of the first restaurants I visited when I arrived in town. Grada is not just
the best restaurant in Kastoria but one of the best I've visited in Greece.
It's a gourmet restaurant, with international influences and a great outdoor
and indoor space exudes a luxury combined with a sweet warmth. Try the fried
cheese pie with tomato jam and fried chicken with mushrooms and honey.
The second restaurant that fascinated me in
Kastoria, was Maria's Tavern. I did not find it anywhere on the internet. Neither
reviews on the tripadvisor, nor photos or anything. But you don't need
tripadvisor when there are locals and when there are hotels such as EsperosPalace, whose people will do everything to make your stay unforgettable and
recommend the best restaurants (thanks Kimon!). Just outside of Kastoria (about
10 minutes drive) in the village of Aposkepos, Maria's Tavern (formerly
Platania) is a small oasis. The food is delicious, the prices are excellent and
the best ... All in a quiet square, under huge plane trees, running waters and
Kastoria spreading out in front of us..
After a 3-and-a-half-hour journey, we arrived quite tired at Esperos Palace Luxury & Spa Hotel, but a few seconds were enough to forget about any fatigue. The warmth and smile with which they welcomed us, the gorgeous reception with the huge spaces and the comfortable sofas, the transparent elevator with the magnificent restaurant view, the sunshine that fell from the glass ceiling creating a strange geometry in the restaurant and finally the room, with this huge and so comfortable bed (read more about my stay in Esperos Palace here). How can someone not love Kastoria when the journey starts like this?
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